Reef Guide

Reef Tank Algae: Types and How to Beat Them

Almost every reef goes through an algae phase. The fix depends on which one you've got — so start by identifying it, then treat the cause, not just the symptom.

TankMate · Pests & algae · 7 min read

Identify what you're looking at

Looks likeProbably
Brown dust on sand/glass in a new tankDiatoms
Long green strands you can gripGreen hair algae (GHA)
Fern-like, feathery, dark green, hard to pullBryopsis
Shiny green balloons/bubblesBubble algae (Valonia)
Red/maroon slimy sheet with bubblesCyanobacteria

By type — and how to beat it

Diatoms (brown dust)

Almost universal in new tanks — silicates plus a young system. Usually harmless and passes on its own in a few weeks as the tank matures. A cleanup crew and patience is all it needs.

Green hair algae

Driven by excess nutrients and light. Control the fuel: get nitrate and phosphate into a sensible range, manually pull what you can, add hungry grazers (snails, hermits, some tangs), and don't overfeed.

Bryopsis

Tougher than GHA and most grazers won't touch it. Raising magnesium to ~1600 ppm with a specific product for several weeks is the classic treatment; Fluconazole is another route many reefers use. Nutrient control still matters.

Bubble algae

Remove carefully by hand — try not to pop the bubbles into the water, which can spread it. Emerald crabs help keep it in check.

Cyanobacteria (red slime)

Technically a bacteria, not algae. Tied to excess nutrients, low flow, and detritus. Increase flow, siphon it out, improve nutrient export, and it recedes. (Its opposite twin, dinoflagellates, needs the reverse — raising nutrients.)

The one habit that prevents most of it

Nearly all algae traces back to nutrients and consistency. Keep nitrate and phosphate in a stable, sensible band — not zero, not sky-high — and most outbreaks never start. Log them in TankMate to catch the creep early, and snap a photo for an AI read when you're not sure what you're looking at. It's free on Google Play.